ANTONIO MARRAS RESORT 24 JUNE NEW YORK
ANA SUI NEW YORK
She's been doing it for years, and she did it once again for Resort in a collection that was inspired by the interiors at legendary decorator David Hicks' Paris shop. The silhouettes, too, will be familiar to Sui fans: forties-style frocks, peasant-style tunic tops, and empire-waist maxi dresses, in floral, Pop, and Deco prints. In addition to reprises of old hits (the cherry print that was a favorite last Resort is back as a full fruit bowl), there were a few new forays (like a great lace safari jacket or a series of Lurex knits). But all in all, it's all very Anna; this much-loved designer doesn't bother to chase fads. That said, the fact that current trends are aligning with Sui's way of doing things could bring fresh eyes to her work.
PHILLIP LIM COLLECTION NEW YORK 2011
The temperature is steadily climbing to the infernal end of the thermometer in New York, so it was a breezy relief to enter Phillip Lim Garment District showroom and find "the beginnings of a quintessential summer wardrobe" (albeit one that doesn't hit stores until November). Translation: loose layers and relaxed silhouettes.
That's not to say Lim has caught the caftan fever that's going around. The designer added shape and chic to his Resort collection by focusing strongly on the waist, adding drawstrings to jumpsuits and cropped parkas and paper-bag closures to tiny shorts. Sometimes, his fascination got the better of him, as in a couple of harem pants whose wraparound sashes gave unnecessary heft. But overall, Lim's downtown clientele will find much to love. Colors are cooler—sky blue, white, sand, mint, and cream—though bursts of hot poppy and marigold appear here and there. Beasts (that is, leopard and ponyhair motifs) joined those flower colors to suggest a nature theme. But in the end, it will all feel right at home on city streets. That ponyhair is print, not skin, to give the look without the heat.
ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH
